Asia – Hayley Everett

Mountains, skyscrapers & night markets in Taiwan

My first visit to Taiwan came about rather spontaneously through a work trip in March 2019. Before this opportunity arose, I knew very little about this tiny island located just off the east coast of mainland China.

Since then, I’ve already returned for a second trip, and did have another planned later this year before the Coronavirus pandemic struck.

Read on to find out why this relatively niche travel destination has left such a lasting impact on me, and why I can’t help returning again and again…

Taipei

*The view from halfway up Elephant Mountain* *(Xiangshan)*

Taipei is Taiwan’s capital city; a sprawling concrete metropolis rearing up between rolling, forest-clad mountains. I had never been anywhere like this before, where urban sprawl and natural beauty co-existed side-by-side in a pleasant, albeit somewhat strange, harmony.

From the minute I stepped foot outside the plane, I felt welcome in Taiwan, and that is almost completely down to the people there. Everyone I met was incredibly friendly; happy to point me the right way when I asked for directions, and all with a smile on their face. The people of Taiwan whom I met on my trip were so full of respect for, and showed so much kindness to, visitors such as myself, so much so that I immediately felt comfortable and at ease (despite this being my first solo international trip to the other side of the world).

Another thing I noticed right away when I arrived was how clean Taipei was, in terms of both rubbish on the streets and air pollution. A major hub in East Asia, the city prides itself on its eco credentials, serving as the country’s political, cultural, educational and economic centre.

As such, there are a plethora of things to do in Taipei. For breathtaking 360 degree views of the city, take the 37-second elevator (travelling at a dizzying 60km per hour) to the 89th floor of Taipei 101, formerly known as the Taiwan World Financial Centre. Taipei 101, which held the title of the world’s tallest building from 2004-2010, is the best place to get a birds-eye view of the city and its surroundings. In my opinion, the best time to go up to the viewing platform is about half an hour before sunset, so you can see the city’s transformation from day to night. Although beware – Taipei is subject to a lot of haze, particularly in the summer months, which may inhibit your view out across the city. So, make sure to check how good the visibility is before you head up there.

If you fancy getting out of the city and exploring Taipei’s natural beauty spots, check out Elephant Mountain (Xiangshan) – a 183m high mountain and hiking trail, with viewing stations which provide panoramic views of the city below. A word of warning – there are a lot of stairs. But, the views are definitely worth it once you get to the top.

And if nature is your thing, then take a trip to nearby Yangmingshan National Park, famous for its cherry blossoms, sulfur deposits, hiking trails and hot springs. Yangmingshan is also home to Taiwan’s tallest dormant volcano, the Seven Star Mountain.

*Beware the stairs..*.hiking up Xiangshan

Other places of interest to explore in Taipei include its many memorial halls and museums, as well as the city’s National Theatre and National Concert Hall. There is a thriving shopping area around Taipei Main Station, including the Taipei Underground Market and the original Shin Kong Mitsukoshi department store. Other popular shopping destinations include the Zhongshan Metro Mall and the Guang Hua Digital Plaza.

Taipei is also home to many temples housing Buddhist, Taoist and Chinese folk religion deities. Xinsheng South Road is known as the ‘Road to Heaven’ due to its high concentration of temples, shrines, churches, and mosques.

Kaohsiung

My second trip to Taiwan saw me travel down to the south of the island to Kaohsiung, where I spent just under a week exploring the city (while I wasn’t working, of course). I loved my time in Kaohsiung, and saw a lot more of the nightlife here than I did during my trip to Taipei.

One of my favourite experiences was visiting one of the city’s many open-air night markets. All types of foods, drinks and local delicacies – most of which I had never seen before and, quite frankly, some of which I’m not all that keen on seeing again – were available to try and buy as you walked through the stalls bustling with families, groups of friends and locals out for a quick bite.

While it probably isn’t the place to spend a great deal of time if you’re particularly squeamish (cue, roasted duck heads), I would absolutely encourage you to try some of what’s on offer to get a truly authentic taste of Taiwan. Besides, you never know until you try, right?

Kaohsiung’s main landmarks include the 85 Sky Tower, standing at 378 metres tall, the ferris wheel of the Kaohsiung Dream Mall, and the city harbour, which is the largest in Taiwan. The city is well-known for its malls and shopping streets, and its newly-developed leisure parks: the Pier-2 Art Center, E-DA Theme Park, Metropolitan Park, Museum of Fine Arts and Tarako Park.

If you’re after something a little more agricultural, check out the views from Monkey Mountain (Shoushan) which is completely made up from coral reefs, walk next to the Love River (also known as the spine of Koahsiung), visit the Dapingding Tropical Botanical Garden in the Siaogang District, or venture out to nearby Yushan National Park.

Whether you venture to the North or South of the island, Taiwan certainly has something for everyone – and I have only scratched the surface of what this incredible place has to offer. When it’s possible, I can’t wait to reschedule my trip out here and explore some more!

What to take when backpacking: India

You’ve booked your flights, mapped your route, and picked out your must-see sights. Now, you need to decide what to pack – and it’s trickier than you might first think. Whether you’re a grab and go packer or spend hours agonising over how many pairs of socks are too many, it always handy to have a rough idea of what you might need, particularly if you’re heading somewhere completely new.

There are lots of factors to consider which will influence what you decide to take with you – how long you’re planning on being away, how active you’re going to be, and whether you’re going to visit any religious or culturally sensitive places, for example.

The first item you need to think about taking with you is a decent travel backpack; I can assure you that trying to maneuver a suitcase around Delhi’s crowded streets will not go well for you. Check out this handy guide from The Broke Backpacker which reviews some of the best backpacks currently on the market, to see what kind of bag would suit your travel needs and style.

If you’re packing for more than a couple of weeks, you will want a pack with at least a 40 litre capacity to make sure you have room for everything you might need. You will also need a decent daypack for when you’re out and about exploring, as you won’t want to be carrying around your big pack all day, especially if you’re travelling during the peak season.

Essentials

A micro-fibre towel – these super lightweight towels take up minimal room and dry far quicker then a normal towel, an absolute must when backpacking.
Padlock – It’s always handy to carry a padlock on you to lock your bag while on a long-haul bus or train journey, and for securing hostel rooms and lockers.
Security money belt – This is a great secure way to stash your money out of sight of petty thieves or chance criminals, especially when travelling through busy or more dodgy areas.
‘Stuff Sacks’ – These waterproof sacks are great for keeping your clothes and other valuables dry and compact so they don’t take up unnecessary room in your backpack.
Imodium – Everyone’s heard of the dreaded ‘Delhi Belly’, so it’s worth packing some of this to make sure you don’t get caught out unexpectedly.
Bug spray – yeah, you’ll need this.

Clothing

The most important thing when deciding what, and how much, to bring with you is to pack light. You almost definitely won’t need everything you’re currently thinking of taking with you, and as a general rule clothes tend to be pretty cheap to pick up on the road as you move form place to place. Packing darker clothes is also a good idea as they don’t show the dirt as much. Here is a list of the types of clothes I took with me on my backpacking adventure around India…

Underwear – goes without saying, really…I would recommend at least a week’s worth, but be prepared to wash them by hand.
T-shirts – 3-4 T-shirts/vest tops that you can mix and match.
Long-sleeve top – Always handy to have one of these to cover sunburn/repel mosquito bites.
Hiking trousers – one pair will do.
Shorts – a couple of pairs.
Jumper – Depending on which part of India you will be travelling to, and in which season, it’s always a good idea to pack at least one lightweight jumper with you.
Raincoat – Especially if you’re travelling in monsoon season, but if you’re travelling in peak summer season you can probably leave this out.
Swimming costume – India has some of the most incredible beaches and warm oceans, so make the most of these if you get the chance
Scarf – one of the most useful things I took with me; you can use it to cover your shoulders while visiting religiously-sensitive sites, to avoid sunburn on the beach, or as a travel pillow while on a bus, train or plane.
Walking shoes/trainers – If you’re planning on doing any hiking or lots of walking then you should definitely invest in some decent footwear.
Sliders/sandals – for the beach/casual wear.
Going-out clothes – Packing light doesn’t mean you can’t take a couple of nice things with you for the evenings, such as a couple of light dresses or skirts.

Obviously, this is just a basic guide based on the kinds of things I took with me to India, and you can customise this list however you see fit, depending on the length of your trip and the kinds of activities (if any) you have planned.

No backpacking checklist is exhaustive, but one piece of advice I would give is to pack as light as possible – you can always pick things up on the road, and sometimes doing it that way is more fun, too.

The Golden Triangle: Delhi, Agra & Jaipur

The North of India is by far one of the most beautifully diverse places I have had the pleasure of visiting. India’s so-called Golden Triangle is perhaps the first, and most obvious, sightseeing tour many people think of when contemplating a trip to India, and in my opinion, it is one that should absolutely not be missed.

The Golden Triangle refers to three areas situated in the North of India which (funnily enough) resemble a triangle shape if you were to join the dots between them. Delhi, India’s bustling, vibrant capital, forms the northern-most tip of the triangle, with Agra, home to the ivory-white Taj Mahal, situated to the southeast. The capital of India’s Rajasthan state, Jaipur, also known as the Pink City, makes up the southwest point and rounds off the tour known by travellers far and wide as: The Golden Triangle.

This tour made up the first leg of my India journey, and was a fantastic introduction to the breathless pace and beauty of this crazy, intriguing country. My best friend and I spent just under a week navigating through Delhi, Agra and Jaipur, and while we could have happily spent far longer exploring these places we felt that this was still enough time to see the best of the sights on offer, and sample some pretty special cuisine, too.

Delhi

India’s capital, Dehli is a bustling metropolis which seamlessly blends the ancient and the modern; an absolute must-visit if you’re planning a trip to India. There’s so much to see and do in this city, and you could spend hours simply people-watching as the locals go about their daily lives.

If you’re here to sight-see, then don’t miss a trip to the Qutab Minar, the tallest brick marinet in the world towering at 72.5 metres. Commissioned by the first Muslim ruler of Delhi, the detail and design in the brickwork is incredible. If architecture is your gig then Delhi won’t disappoint, as there are hundreds of buildings across the city serving as hallmarks left behind by Delhi’s multiple rulers of the last millennia.

You should also check out Humayan’s Tomb commissioned in 1562, the first garden tomb built in the Indian sub-continent which used red sandstone on a large scale. Although visitors can’t stop there for long, make sure you drive by the iconic India Gate and President’s House. The Red Fort, which served as residence for the Mughal Royal Family, is also worth a look, as is Rajghat, the memorial to Mahatma Ghandi.

If you want to get in and amongst the hustle and bustle of Delhi, then there is no better place to go than Chandni Chowk; home to the busiest market in Old Delhi. Tour around the noisy, busy streets in a cycle rickshaw – super cheap, this is the best way to get around and experience the inner twists and turns without getting lost or haggled at every turn.

After wandering through the stalls full of spices, dried fruits and jewelry, stop in along Paranthe Wali Gali, a street famous for its incredible Parathas, an Indian flatbread served with multiple toppings and Dals (soups and dips made from dried, split pulses and flavoured with a multitude of spices). Street food is incredibly cheap here, with parathas and a cup of Lassi setting you back less than 80 rupees (£1). Soak up the buzz and craziness of the market from here, and you’ll start to get a real feel for everyday life in Delhi.

Accommodation can be pretty cheap across the city, with a dorm bed in one of the many backpacking hostels in New Delhi available for between 400 and 900 rupees (£5-10) per night. Hostelworld or Booking.com are good places to start your search. If you would like a little more luxury on your trip, then a decent hotel will set you back around 5,000-7,000 rupees (£50-£70) per night.

Agra

The next stop on the Golden Triangle Tour is Agra, known mostly for being the setting of the world-famous and UNESCO world heritage site, the Taj Mahal. One of the most famous landmarks not just in India, but the across the world, you can understand why some might worry the Taj will be underwhelming when you see it in the flesh (or marble…). But from my experience, it was truly one of the most breathtaking sights I’ve ever seen.

To catch the Taj in it’s best light, go just before dawn on a clear day. As the sun starts to rise, its rays dance across the white marble making it shimmer and sparkle in the early morning sunlight. It really is ethereal.

The story behind the Taj is one of love and loss; Emperor Shah Jahan had the mausoleum built as a symbol of his devotion to his beloved queen Mumtaz Mahal, after she died giving birth to their 14th child. The Taj took 21 years to complete, and is now the resting place of both the Emperor and his queen.

Travellers flock from all corners of the globe to visit the Taj Mahal, the place symbolic what many deem the ultimate love story. But if tales of love and romance don’t float you boat, the beautiful architecture and sheer scale of the Taj warrants a visit in itself.

The Taj is open from 6am-7pm every day except Fridays, when it is closed for prayer. It is also open for night viewing every full moon from 8pm-12:30am, plus the two nights before and after.

If you would like to hear all about the history and story of the Taj, I would definitely recommend hiring a guide – they can also take that picture-perfect photo of you and your fellow travellers! But if you would rather take in the beauty of the Taj while wandering round on your own, then you won’t find a more powerful, reflective place to be alone with your thoughts (save from the crowds).

The entry fee for foreigners is 1,100 rupees (around £12) which can be purchased at the gate but be prepared to queue. If you’re planning to go before dawn, get there at least half an hour before the opening times, or you will miss the magical sunrise moment while queuing for your tickets!

Agra isn’t just home to the Taj Mahal, though. The Red Fort, commissioned in 1565, is a handsome example of Mughal architecture and definitely worth a trip to. Also not to miss is Fatehpur Sikri, another UNESCO world heritage site, home to many historical buildings and also to the Tomb of Sheikh Salim Chishti which enshrines the burial place of the Sufi saint who used to live there.

Jaipur

Also known as the ‘Pink City’ Jaipur’s picture perfect architecture can be found featured across many celebrities’ Instagram accounts, famous for its colourful culture, forts, palaces and lakes.

Set in the traditional state of Rajasthan, Jaipur is the must-see third stop on the Golden Triangle Tour.

Take a trip to the Old City of Jaipur, painted completely pink, to walk through the endless winding markets to practice your bargaining skills and sample some of the delicious street food on offer.

If you want to find out more about the history of Jaipur (and discover who chose to paint an entire city pink), you can hire a guide to show you around the nooks and crannies, alternatively just wander through the narrow streets to take in the pretty decor of the facades and the general hustle of everyday life here.

Jaipur’s Amber Fort is also worth a visit. Built in the 16th century and a named UNESCO world heritage site, the fort is constructed from a mixture of red sandstone and marble and lies on the top of a hill just outside of Jaipur. The main way of getting to the top is on elephant back, however the hill is easily scalable so you can walk to the top instead, if you’d prefer to avoid riding the elephants.

Side note: When I went, our guide had booked us on to the elephant rides without us knowing – although they looked as if they were fairly well looked after, you never quite know how the animals are actually treated. If animal welfare is something that concerns you, the walk to the top is steep but not very far, and you get to see some truly beautiful scenery on the way up!

Other sights not to miss while you’re in Jaipur include the beautiful Hawa Mahal, also known as ‘Palace of the Winds’, and a trip around the City Palace where you can take a look in the armoury, browse traditional dress worn by ruling families of Jaipur dating back hundreds of years, and other cool parts of the palace. If you have time, stop in at the Jantar Mantar Observatory, home to huge traditional geometric devices used to measure time.

Getting started…

Booking a Golden Triangle tour is a great way of seeing some of India’s most famous sites in a short space of time, and is perfect for travellers who don’t have a lot of time, or are embarking on a trip for the first time. There are lots of tour companies out there which will offer you different variations of the tour, as well as different add-ons such as flights, guides and extra excursions, so make sure you do your research before booking. We booked with a local travel agent who put together a private all-inclusive tour to suit exactly what we wanted, at a good price – we were travelling other areas of India after this under our own steam, so booking a tour to get the ball rolling made perfect sense to us. Also, it meant this was one less thing for us to organise.

Alternatively, you can go it alone and follow the route as you see fit – the distance between each destination is relatively little and there are a number of different transport options available to get you from A to B. This can be an exciting, freeing way to travel as you’re not restricted by timings, and can choose to do however much sightseeing, relaxing or partying you like. If you’re an experienced traveller or are looking to get off the beaten tourist trail, then this a great way of experiencing the best that Delhi, Agra and Jaipur have to offer.